The resistance pyro's have to have voltage applied through one wire and a computer to see how much made it through the other wire. Some use dissimilar metals to generate an electrical current, others use the resistance. Remember, and let me be a lesson to everyone in the community, there is up to 3 different types of "Pyro's". With a factory probe plugged in or not, it's reading 32 volts. So then I checked the factory wiring harness to see if I had an issue there. In short it generates it's own electricity. Indicating, and I might be wrong, but a "K" style. I then checked the resistance to the probe he sold me and it has none. I would blow on it with my breath they would drop to like a 170K. I tested several OEM probes with a fluke and found the following at 70 degree's they all read around 250K ohms. The one I purchased years ago is a resistance style probe. All the after market probes work differently than the one I purchased way back when with the kit. So a local shop whom I have trusted for years said, here is one, just cut the wires and splice it into the old connecter. Well the factory "H&S" plug in probe is not sold any more. Did some reading, and every one said replace the probe. Started getting erratic readings, 0 all the way to 9000. Bought the entire kit back when it was sold with a factory plug in pyro, you just screwed it on in the block off plate next to number 6. Need a little helpĢ007.5, 6.7L - Have a mini max, DPF EGR Delete.
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